Monday, November 30, 2009

A quicky

Bus-Ferry-Bus-Taxi-Bus-Hotel-Boat-Boat-Boat and I'm here on Corn Island.

The internet is slow here so I can't post photos from any of the last 2 weeks. Buutttt that right now I'm on a little slice of paradise! Holy its beautiful here. Do yourself a favor and search Corn Island on the Caribbean side of Nicaragua.

Headed by another little boat today to Little Corn to try some snorkeling. Was thinking about diving but its a bit out of my price range so waiting til Honduras.

The stories that I have from my trip here are priceless but will have to wait until next time. Just happy to be here on land and alive after the long boat ride on a little boat with engine problems. At one point in the middle of he 8 hour 19 minute trip the engine quit and we were spinning in the oceans swells. All we could do is hold on and not puke!

Like I said, its over, we're here and alive. Traveling with two new friends from Canada and Aus.

Everyone here speaks English with a dialect of Jamaican Spanish. So funny and entertaining.
Ok, off to catch my next boat. Going to try to buy a lobster from the fisherman today, they sell them for $1.50 fresh off the boats!

Ometepe!

Ometepe, the island on Lake Nicaragua made up of 2 volcanoes, a waterfall, beaches and great people!

Wanted to see the waterfall, a 40m biggen that was 12k's from my hotel. So did what I thought was smart at the time and rented a bike. But not thinking about the roads being crazy rock paths. It worked my legs like none other, then when I finally got to the waterfall gates (after a random fishing trip with my restaurant owner) I had to hike up the volcano 2 hours. This waterfall isn't like those in Costa where you can dive into. This was, in total, 2.5ft deep. And the water wasn't powering down, it was trickling, so I took my daily shower in there instead of the luxurious showers every hotel offers!

A 4 hour hike up and down made me hungry again, went back to the one and only restaurant where I bought bananas off a guys tree and ran into Alex and Nikki, two peeps staying at the same hotel. Luckily. Because after we watched the sunset we made the 8k trek back on bikes in the dark. DO NOT TRY THIS EVER. With 2k's to go we started walking, the risk of riding into rocks and sliding down the hill was too great for all of us. Something we all laugh about now, but will never do again.....I think!

Spent 5 days total on Ometepe, here roaming around and killing my legs. Hiked Volcano Maderas the third day I was there, its a slippery mud hike up and practically an adventure slide down as we all tried catching ourselves before falling forever in mud. Made it to the top to the crater lake in just over 4 hours. In all a 8 hour hike up and down. You can't really see anything from the top because its surrounded in clouds, but I guess I did it to say I've summited a Volcano on Ometepe!

Thinking, "yeah, did one, why not the other" headed over to Volcano Conception to try my luck. As this is a VERY steep rocky hike without forest, many say its heat and always up trail is a killer. And advice from an experienced hiker said that the top part was only ash and you have to slide down from the summit on your butt, I opted not to summit this but hike up 7.5k's, a 15k total hike from Altogracia. My legs were shaking soooooo much by the time we made it back to the hotel. I was very thankful,......worked out perfectly as it was Thanksgiving.

Great island for hitching a ride, meeting friendly peeps and hiking. Also very random......fishing trip with the locals, bike rides at night and the never ending search for fruit. Still wondering what the people eat here other than rice,beans and platinos.

Granada, Volcano Mombacho, Masaya

Granada is a place you must visit. After living in Matagalpa for 3 weeks my visit here was like a breath of fresh air.

This city is one of the oldest and you can tell by its old colonial architecture. Spent most of my time roaming around the streets and asking questions to the locals. Found myself up in one of the many beautiful churches, in the bell tower to be exact taking in a sunset overlooking the city.

Stayed in Hotel Esfinge, and for all you local travelers headed to Granada, its a bit more expensive but you get your own room and there's a kitchen for $7. I did find another couple hotels for 6 or so, that's in a dorm.

Volcano Mombacho was amazing. The adventure just getting there was just as good. Chicken bus at 5:45am, 1.5k hike up to gates, huge cargo truck ride for 45 minutes up and then you get to start walking finally! The ElSendero Pumo hike is a 4 hours up and down hike that takes you around the 4 craters. With many look out points, its one hike to hit up for sure. For awhile I thought I was going to lose my legs.

The mirador in Catarina was stunning. It overlooks lake Apoyo, which is a crater lake that is relatively clean, compared to Lake Nicaragua (largest lake in Central America, which is a border to Granada) the lake is a crystal gem! Was a great trip up there as well, until I used the bathroom that didn't have toilet paper, water on toilet, no running water or towels and they charged me to use it....if it would have been nice I would not have complained!

Masaya....a town of great market shopping. So big I got lost inside the HUGE shed that was tunnels of stuff. People would pull me into their cubes asking what I was looking for and saying,Pase adelante (pass forward!) Didn't buy anything, no room in the heavy backpack, but so entertaining for a few hours. And don't worry as I was getting there my bus started smoking heavily and people piled out, running away fast, so needless to say I walked and opted not to take another bus there.

And my favorite story from these few days is when I was on the bus, its hot, leather seats, I'm sweating profusely and the bus money man comes along collecting. As I was near the back sitting surrounded by people standing as well, the money man decides that he should stand near me while getting money from everyone behind. So I was blessed with his armpit covering my head for at least a minute as we bounced along this road while my head was cushioned by his very large belly. I couldn't move and couldn't stop laughing. WHY ME!!!!

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Happy rice and beans!

Alive and well on the Island of OmeTepe!

Been seeing and doing some incredible things lately, more blogs to come but limited time on internet in Altagracia.

Climbed two volcanoes in the last week.
Volcan Mombocho
Volcan Maderas, holy mud and my legs are so sore....today I can barely walk!

Spent time in Granada and Masaya. Check out the mirador in Catarina. Now resting so I can climb the other volcano here. Don't worry mom, I hire guides. Yesterday my guide didn't know a thing. So not sure why!

The waterfall here is great. 40 meters high. Yes, pictures are coming.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all and I'll update more when I leave the island. That'll be on Friday.

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Time for more adventure....

Leaving Matagalpa tomorrow and heading off to Granda, the island of Ome Tepe and the Masaya. After hiking up and around those volcanos, I plan to hit the Carribean for my first time in Central America. Going to spend a week or two on Corn Island!

Paz.

Monday, November 16, 2009

Jinotega. Esteil. Matagalpa. Chickens on the bus!

Chickens are taking over the world here. They ride the buses. Was on my way down the mountain on one of the two buses that passes through Estanzula, near Esteli, when I hear a chicken. Was sitting in the last seat of the bus, turned, looked over my shoulder and there was a chicken, chilling in a 5 gallon bucket. Next thing I know I see people carrying them in grocery bags, with holes cut out for their heads.

Update:
-I was plagued with inescapable traveler's 'runs'. Yes, 'runs.' Those that make you dive for any bathroom. Yes, I had them. 9 days strong. After day 8 I gave in to taking the drugs that were prescribed to before I left the country. Thank you pills!

-Went on a couple day trips to Jinotega and Esteli. Bus ride to Jinotega....my seatmate falls asleep and his hand lands on my leg....would you move it or pretend its not there??????
Jinotega, a small city yet beautifully placed in the mountains. Ate some good food, tried a raspado (slushy) out of Tamarindo, from a tree and saw the local sites. Funny story about the food.....because of my little sickness, I could hardly go 20 minutes after eating ANTYHING before needing the restroom. Well I had a little snack on the bus and when I got to Jinotega I found a restaurant and asked for the restroom. Good thing I carry tp with me now, but bad luck here because after I deposited my snack in the toilet I realized that the toilet is not functioning. And yes, turns out the RR is located right next to the kitchen. PERFECT! I stay and enjoy my breakfast but BOLT as soon as I take the last bite. Maybe I need to carry around tools too!


Walked around the market there for awhile, after being hassled I decided to jet off to Esteli and spend the night there.

My bus ride from Jinotega to Esteli was a lesson in itself.
-People tie pigs up in the ditches so they can eat.
-Saw a family using a team of oxen to drive a cart of oranges.
-One house had chickens running in and out of it.
-Clearing a field consists of 30 men with machetes.
-Cabbage is growing everywhere.
-The 3 hour ride consisted of only dirt roads. When I got there I had a fine layer of Nicaragua dirt covering my entire body!
-The landscape is similar to Costa Rica, it has rolling mountains and everything is green. Here there is less life in the forests. There are more fields here and this place is bustling with cowboys. Its normal to see horses tied up in the country to a tree or in the city, saddled and ready to ride!
-My seatmate was a 50 yr old woman who I thought was pleasant, as I was taking everything in, I saw her spit on the floor. All I could do was laugh!

Esteli, I love! The sunset here was great, but my first real working shower in 2 weeks was phenomenal. Although it was cold, I found myself dancing and singing with enjoyment! I paid $3.50 for my hotel!

Was up at 5am, roaming a new market to catch the 6am bus to the waterfall. Waterfall which I thought was huge, as it tall, which was actually long and drawn out. A bit surprised but enjoyed the country of Esteli. The untouched landscape is a bit like Texas, dry and dusty, with mtns!

Tried to see a local gallery here, luck wasn't with me as it was closed. But spent time roaming in all the shops. They sell everything from Victoria secret sprays, to Nike shoes and Holister shirts. All very VERY cheap!.


During the floor construction, I would carry 40-50 of these buckets with cement each day.


The floors to the house are finished. Luis finished them while I was away. So great to see the kids running around, happily enjoying their house.

Good new, back to showering inside. The shower floor has tile now so all is good. Still using a 5 gallon bucket!

Eating and trying the local food. Now that my stomach has whatever creature is needed to survive here, I figure why now. Nacatamale, enchilada for 10cents, or a cookie for 6, how can anyone turn this opportunity down!




Observations:
-Do what you have to do to make a dollar. Hence the LOAD of bananas on this truck!
-I'm served every meal. People don't help themselves, we wait for our plate in the house.
-Jenny left today with a potato sack of clothes on her head, off to the river to wash clothes.
-Not sure school is ever required. Seems to me that the kids are always playing in the streets.

-Went to have a beer with Luis, his bro and father yesterday afternoon. They had to check out the bar first, as it turns out, its only men. I was thee only women there and they were looking for a safe spot since Sunday is a day for many to drink heavily.

Alive and doing well. Will be heading to Granada, OmeTepe, Masaya, and Corn Islands soon. Not sure which destination first!

Off to refill my 5 gallon jug with pure water and catch the bus back to Sur Maria, a 45 minute jaunt on old US school buses filled with everything imaginable! Love this place!

Monday, November 9, 2009

how to .....

....clean your clothes with you don't have a machine...........



......make a floor.............



Still kicking it in Matagalpa. Now that we're constructing the floors inside, I've been showering outside. It's an interesting feat.

Headed to a Museum today.

Planning day trips to Jinotega, Esteli and San Ramon.

Spanish is coming along. Reading Emerson.

Hasta lluego!

Friday, November 6, 2009

Matagalpa, Nicaragua

I've arrived in Nicaragua and currently in Matagalpa. It's known as the coffee capital of NI and is located in a valley. The climate here is great, warm sun during the day and fresh nights. Always can wear shorts, that's if I'm feeling brave around the locals, they like my legs.

My new name in NI is 'Chelita'. Costa Rica it was Gringa. Chelita means 'white person, with love' All words that end with "ita" are either meant for something small or with love. Since I'm at least a foot taller than everyone in the country, I'm going to say they say it with 'love!'

Luck strikes again! This is Luis's house, the house where I'm staying...indefinitely! Beautiful I know. This is a rare site as most houses don't have color or character.


These are other houses. Took this photo while in the bus on the way to the city center.


To your left is Vilma, one of 5 sisters to Luis. The woman in pink is Luis's mother. Please note the height difference. I'm convinced its because they start drinking coffee at age 5.




Hiked in a park called Selva Negra. However was unable to see the views from the top of the mtn because of the torrential downpour. Come to find out that the Caribbean was being hit by a hurricane and this was the rain from it. Perfect for hiking!

During the birthday party. Realize that I'm hunched over and that everyone else is standing upright! Haha, needless to say I'm a giant here. Until yesterday, Nahomi, Luis's one year old daughter was scared of me......white skin, blue eyes and very tall. Imagine!

Nahomi, she turned 1 on Nov 3rd!

The mothers of Luis and Jenny making dinner for the party. They made Chop suey which is cabbage cooked, with carrots, chioti, red pepper, onions, an entire chicken and salt!

All the nino's at the party. Luis (Luis's son's name is Luis too!) is next to the pinata in the red shirt.

Luis y Luis with family!

The market.....ha, this was the meat part. There are other tunnels that lead to fruits and veggies or clothes or pretty much any trinket you can think of. You can bargain. Totally entertaining. But when in the market I have huge signs on me saying MONEY so Luis and family guard me like I'm one of them. Telling all the little kids that I don't have money for them and the others to leave me alone! Pays to have friends.

Carrying the bag of cabbage. 8 heads of cabbage for the Chop Suey. Holy comida!

A typical bus ride. Old US buses used for shuttles down here. Anything goes. These are usually jammed packed with people and the fare is 6cents!

What else:
The chickens wake me up at 2:30am, 3 am, 4 am, 5 am, and finally I give up around 6am and start the day.

I can now shower on one gallon of water. I use a 5gallon bucket and a small container to pour over myself while standing on gravel.

Food: Rice and beans with something. Beans here are red instead of black in CR. The food from the vendors is amazing, enchiladas, tacos, peanut brittle. I'm obsessed!
Clothing: everyone dresses like Americans, there is AE an A&F brands here, $1/shirt! Everything is DIRT cheap.

I ate cereal with water the other day and decided I like it best dry. Luis doesn't have electricity or water right now because his barrio "suburb" is new. So no fridge, but there is a fridge, its used for storage of dishes to keep the flies away.

Jenny's mom took my clothes yesterday to the river, its their washing machine.

Crossing the border was a breeze. In total, a 12 hour travel day from Monteverde CR to Matagalpa NI.

There is garbage everywhere in the streets of the city. The country is beautiful. Hiking the other day made me think I was in Costa Rica. I see why people love it here.

Realizing that laws don't matter here. Anything goes. If you want to exchange money on the streets its cool, smoke inside a building, bus or house.... or have someone illegally stamp your passport (heard about this today!) or feel like selling bananas from your neighbors tree. All is fair. Many have electricity illegally because the gov't hasn't hooked it up yet.

So far, its been a great experience. Sleeping with an insect net every night, on a bed, sharing a room with Luisito! Usually day tripping somewhere everyday. Yesterday Luis, luisito and I went into another barrio and bought supplies for his house, we're going to complete the floors. Jenn, from Hidden Canopy in Costa Rica gave him an early Christmas present and now, finally he gets to give his family a clean place to live!

EVERYDAY I'm reminded of how lucky we are. Everyday I write down how much I want to help. And one day, I will. Just need to find out how.

Ponder this....families live off $100/month. FAMILIES.