Thursday, February 25, 2010

Bowl of intestines for dinner

I thought I ordered a steamy bowl of chicken drenched in a brown sauce with rice on the side.  That's what I pointed to anyways.  La Cancha the place.  A small tienda with a million too many things for sale in it.  You walk behind the counter and you're in a eclectic house/restaurant.  Where I sat down at one of the two tables, nicely patterned table cloth from the '70's.  With 8 men.  They had the bowls that I craved.  I must have looked like a flamingo because they looked at me like I just came from another contient. 

I liked what they had in front of them.  So I pointed and said I'd like one of those.  Next thing I know there's a bowl with red sauce, rice and you got it, intestines in front of me.  Cut in inch pieces.  Some with chuncks inside, some without.  Deep breath.  Stay calm.  Another deep breath, you can do this Hailee.  I already avoid noodles.  Imagine intestines.  One bite in and my confidence crumbled like dry bread.

So here I sit.  On a table with 8 men.  Staring at an entire wall of Jesus posters.  In a house/restaurant.  I drank my entire bottle of water.  Ate the three HUGE rolls of bread they served with the 'tines' and slowly stirred away.  Added what they'd call their chili/picante sauce, three times and the taste didn't improve. 

Nothing like an akward moment to top off everything I've already experienced here in Antigua.  Just wanting a local/cheap meal.  Got some intestines instead of chicken.  Watched the men enjoy their lovely bowl of goodness while they watched me dabber around the unknown objects in mine.

Phew, stuffed!  Bring on another town please!

A big THANK YOU to US Bank and my mom!

Teamwork makes things happen.

Hollie Stoker at the US Bank branch in Ottumwa, Iowa............THANK YOU!  A quick ramble to why I'm so happy to have my US Bank Debit Card back.  It's easy.  I'd been using my US Bank card, until I gave it to the Caribbean in Livingston, Guatemala.  The BOA card fees are outrageous in Central America and I vow to use US Bank as much as possible for everything now.  The fact that they stuck through rough Skype conversations with me, canceling my lost card, issuing a new one immediately and helping with a few other loose ends is reason enough.  Again, muchas gracias!

Add that to being stuck in Antigua with the oddest coincidences happening everyday and that'll make your mom send you the card in 3 envelopes via 2 day air without a postal code!!  Thanks mom and the big D, what would I do without you?

A new way to bargain.....

And just when I thought I'd seen it all, I went to the market again.

Sending a postcard to a 4th grade class up in Minneapolis.  Needed the postcard.  Had 2Q, a bag of mandarines, peanuts and my keys on me. 

Postcard price 5Q.  We made a deal for 2Q and 1 mandarine. Yes, thats correct.  I bought a postcard using dos Quetals and a mandarine.  Why o why can't we buy things with fruit in the states?

Glenda even approved, saying 'buen negocio' and hugging me!
 

A big shout out to the women of Guatemala and their ability to carry anything on their heads while walking through the hectic maze of the market, something we'd see live on 'American Gladiators.'

This woman is carrying a baby on her back and HUGE sack on her head, while shopping.  Surprised she wasn't whistling.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Buen precio para usted!

The vendors, they always 'have a good price'

The look

Jumping with kids
 
This is style people
 Chilling in the park with Sarah

The cutest couple ever

Sarah, myself and Fabrizeo in the park


Today:  Antigua.  Volcanoes in the background.  Market run for fresh cut fruit.  New vendor friends in the park.  Kids asking for 1Q for photos.  Shoe polishers wanting to clean our flip flops.  Granada chocolate.  Bargaining for a bracelet.  New games.  New friends.  Fresh banana bread.  Only two machine guns (gotta have security!)  Lots of jumps.  Tortillas made of corn.  White beans.  And a new promise to avoid cruise ships!

(all photos from Fabrizeo)

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Antigua moments

 
  
7Q is roughly 86 cents

  
Volcano Fuego-yes it's erupting!

 
Favorite tree

 A few of my bed bug bites, not a favorite, but something to see
 
Antigua from the roof

 
Addicted!

 
Sunglass broke.  Needed storage for superglue after fixing.  OUCH!

The second quake today is 5.3 in Guatemala


No bigs.  Second quake of the day in Antigua.  Call it an aftershock if you can but 5.3 says quake to me.  9:15 a.m. I'm standing in my room and my legs start wobbling.  I look up, the plant hanging in the hallway is swaying.  This time I make my way to the door way, taking no chances.

It passes in 10-15 seconds (my time) and life goes on like normal.  The locals laugh, ask if I'm scared since I'm asking so many questions.

I respond "this isn't normal for me, none of this!"

Earthquake Details (source)

Magnitude5.3
Date-Time

5.6 on the richter scale

I woke up and my bed was shaking.  All I could think about was 'oh now what, another bed story?'  The last few nights have been memorable.  Bed bugs.  Then the next night man with my undies on.  Tonight, well less than an hour ago I wake up to my bed shaking.  No noises.  I look around my room no one is in here.  Then I contemplate ghosts.  But it last too long.  Earthquake?  Do I get up and run to a doorway?  I grew up in tornado country, not shaky land.

View Epicenter in a larger map  (Blue marker represents epicenter, line ends in Antigua, where I'm at now)
Attempted to close my eyes again after it ended.  Riiiight.  You think I can sleep after that?  Failed attempt.  When I looked at my ipod it said 4:53a.m.  Instead of sleeping I ran a series of events through my head that could have been the reason for my bed shaking.

After researching seismic activity, this is what I found from the quake at 4:52am:

Earthquake Details  (Source)

Magnitude5.6
Date-Time
Location16.095°N, 91.174°W
Depth47.9 km (29.8 miles)
RegionCHIAPAS, MEXICO
Distances105 km (65 miles) E of Comitan, Chiapas, Mexico
115 km (70 miles) NW of Coban, Guatemala
175 km (110 miles) NNW of GUATEMALA CITY, Guatemala
930 km (570 miles) ESE of MEXICO CITY, D.F., Mexico
Location Uncertaintyhorizontal +/- 7 km (4.3 miles); depth +/- 13.2 km (8.2 miles)
ParametersNST=165, Nph=165, Dmin=550.7 km, Rmss=1.09 sec, Gp=151°,
M-type=teleseismic moment magnitude (Mw), Version=7
Source
  • USGS NEIC (WDCS-D)
Event IDus2010tbaz

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Bed bugs again last night, tonight where to begin!

I've been restless all day as I ran into bed bugs last night at Ummagumma in Antigua.   So, once again I moved hostels, sent 45 pieces of my clothing to be washed and off I went.

Just when you think that things can't get any more disturbing, they do.

I went to a soccer (futbol) game today with my salsa teacher and the owners of my hotel. First game in Central America......holla!   Afterwards we stopped for beers and chiccharrones.  By the time night rolled around, I had picked up my laundry and made my way back to the hotel.  Was using my computer and salsa instructor returns very intoxicated, his plan to stay in the hotel as well.

I had been in my room, went down stairs to talk to man guarding hotel about drunk salsa instructor and how I really don't want to share my dorm with him, he ensures me all is ok and I won't have to.  I go up stairs only to find Andres (mr. salsa) naked in my room.  I immediately walk back down stairs and talk to guard man.  "Can you remove naked man from my room please?" (In spanish)  Again he ensured me all was ok.  He knew him.  The owners know him, I felt that this was a joke and wasnt really happening.

Stupidly, I trust guard man to remove him from my room.  I leave to go eat with my new Madagascar friend.  And return to something from a movie.  My room destroyed.  Half my washed clothes thrown about my room, my veggies tossed everywhere, other half of my clothes missing.  We go to other room where mr salsa is staying and my clothes/veggies are thrown about there too.  It turns weird.  Ha, ok more weird.  I start counting my clothes.  I took 45 pieces to the lavadaria and I only have 34 now.  Hmmm

My new friend looks at Mr Salsa and notices he's got pink lacy undies on.  YES that is RIGHT.  He had on 2, not 1, but 2 pairs of my underwear.  And my jeans. And a shirt under his shirt.  Don't worry, my wool socks too.  (wool socks really?)

I flip out.  He's drunk.  He's pretending not to know anything.  This dude, once my friend, my dancing teacher has on my underwear and all my clothes.   He's trying to leave.  I push him down.  Guard man, aka not good guard man, seperates me from him for good reason and makes him change clothes.  I demand money for the night.  To rewash ALL of my clothes and for my veggies. Mr salsa doesn't have 15Q, aka less than $2.  Guard man kicks him out after I get my clothes back.  And say's he's sorry.  I look at him like 'really guard man, you're sorry, do you really know how WEIRD this is, remember what we just saw, is this normal, you say sorry like it's nothing.'

I laugh.  Can I really experience anything more?  Really?  Seriously I just saw a man with my pink lacy thong on.  Sorry for the description, but it's needed.

Needless to say, no more salsa for me here in Antigua.  I need out of Antigua, but patiently waiting for my new ATM card to come.  Cross fingers it comes fast.  Not sure if I can handle this any longer.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

When to cut the mane?

Do I have someone here cut it?  Someone that has never cut blonde, curly, long hair before?  Someone who might cut it with a machete?  Someone who may have no idea what to do with the amount of hair that's on my head?

Or do I let the mane grow?  It's out-of-control and untamed.

Thoughts or recommendations?

What to do in Guatemala today?

You know you're a backpacker when:

You're walking down the side walk.  Big backpack on the back and little one on the front.  You're shades broke so everyone can see you crying.  Crying because you just said goodbye to your bestie after traveling two weeks with one crazy chica.  You're carrying a sack of stuff you bargained for at the market, in the morning, in one hand.  A half cut watermelon in the other.  The view on the sidewalk straight ahead is of a volcano.  And upon entering the cheapest hostel you just found, other backpackers just give you a nod.  As if saying, 'totally know what you're going through right now, pase adelante!'

Going to ramble a bit.  This is a blog more for me today.  Been in Central America now for over 6 months.  Living.  Working.  Learning.  Traveling.  And for the majority of those 6 months I was with people I just met.  Other than the 5 days with my sisters, I hadn't had face to face contact with a friend that knew me for more than a month.  And then Anna came.  WOW!  What a different take on traveling.  So many times we laughed until we cried.  So many times we'd stop, recap what we just saw or heard and say 'that really DID just happen' or 'only in Central America.'  So much fun to share those moments.

Here's a quick example, Anna you should really elaborate on this.

When we were in Semuc Champey (village) we needed internet to call Anna's mom, it was her birthday.  Why we thought it would be a quick cheap trip to Lanquin, I don't know.  9 kms away, it was $10 in transportation, remember grain trucks with tarps on the tops in which we were 2 feet too tall to stand in, we get to the 'internet cafe' and it sounds like bombs are exploding.  The kids playing killing games with a sound system.  Outside while Anna was on the computer, I see a kid playing soccer with no pants on.  Then another kid peeing off the side of a church.  Twenty minutes later, waiting for the ride back we watch a soccer game in the street.  We were approached by a drunk man with machete.  He offered us a ride in his car back to Semuc.  As he harassed us, the tienda owners next door laughed and watched.  Only to our amazement, it got more interesting as we saw a dog molest a pig on one side of the game, a  kid run through the middle with his shorts on his head and a turkey chilling on the other side.  All completely normal to the people around us.  A two hour unforgettable internet trip. 

Now, not decompressing but revamping myself.  It's different traveling with another person.  The things you think about are different.  The worries.  The necessities.  The ideas.  The conversations.  Will be staying in Guatemala for some time longer.  Not sure what to do yet, but when it comes to me, I'll be on the next bus outta Antigua.

Anna and I have ideas rolling now.  We're looking to get paid to travel.  We decided this worlds' playground is just too much fun to skip, we want to explore it all!  Thinking we can get sponsored or something.  We spent countless hours on the bus throwing out ideas.  If you have any, please share. 

SALSA!!!!!

Why not learn to Salsa dance!?

This is what Anna and I did this morning and yesterday.

Watching yourself attempt to salsa dance in front of a mirror next to your best friend doing the same thing, humbling?  Add that and being a foot taller than your instructor, things get REAL interesting

Not sure if it's a good sign when your friend stops dancing and starts laughing uncontrollable while starring at you.  I think she was trying to steal my moves!

Friday, February 19, 2010

Guatemala guatemala guatemala

You know when you spend a long time with one person, you get to know them REAL well.  Well Anna and I did that in college so now, since we've been traveling we've had those moments where we begin to trigger relapses of hilarious moments.

We've shared the dalmation bed.  Then the next night we had to share a TWIN size bed, as we arrived into Lanquin at 9pm in the rain and that's all they had left.  No options.  We look up from each others feet tucked deep in blankets and both say 'if our friends could only see us now, they wouldn't be suprised.


We've spent serious time in the buses.  Sitting next to each other.  Sharing stories and thoughts.  Anna has been plauged with the travelers D and yesterday I cried on the bus as she told me when she woke up in the morning she had to go check her pants.  She was so sweaty she didn't know what had happened in her sleep.
No worries, just sweat.


We're traveling cheap.  Sharing almost every meal, every piece of fruit and every drink.  Lets just say, some good bonding.  We've seen half of this country by bus windows and look-out points.  It's rugged, beautiful, mysterious and energetic all at the same time.  That could really describe us too.

Anna has one day left.  I have a very long list of things/reasons to keep her in the country for at least another week.  We'll see if it works.  Salsa dancing lessons today and another trip to the market.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Semuc Champey Chocolate

Addiction:

It's buying atleast 2 chocolates a day.

It's hiding my money in my shorts from Anna when she asks to hold it, so I have enough to buy atleast one chocolate, she's trying to help me break the habit. It's waking up in the morning thinking chocolate or going to bed dreaming of it.  It becomes a problem when you know which kid sells the best and when they know your name.
 
  
Anna and I dried our own cocoa beans!


First step is admitting the problem!  Now, weening myself off.......its tough people!

Has all of this just happened?

Anna here checking in again.  Going to bullet point a few eye openers that Guatemala offers to me on a daily basis.

Grain Trucks aka People Movers


The best thing about riding in these is that I am a foot taller than everyone else and always have a decent view, unless it is tarped for rain, things can get complicated.

Daily bug check in the dorm rooms


You never know what visitors you are having that evening or are already there to welcome you.  Thus far we have had spiders, toads, a dog, and the unknown leg eaters that come out at night and suck our blood.

The Sun


Results: I have shed an entire layer of skin head to toe

Fun with the Machete


This thing is great!  I cut open my first coconut with it!

Scorpy the Scorpion


I got stung by this big grey and yellow legged creature in the jungle, OUCH!


Picked fresh cocoa


This is what chocolate is made from, aka the cocoa seed pod

The endless beauty

Semuc Champey wowzers!

When people say that Semuc Champey might be one of the most beautiful things you can see and experience in Guatemala, they're not lying or even exaggerating.
(having hard time rotating, pick and turn computer!)
Deep.  And I mean DEEP in the jungle.  In the heart of Guatemala.  Where people use dirt mountain trails as sidewalks.  Where they speak the Mayan language of Kekchi and little Spanish. 
(Chocolate girls, I bought over 10 bars, it's a problem)

Where the little girls sell home made chocolate.  They're mom's dry the cocoa beans in the front yard.

Where you walk 1km in any direction to find the closest tienda and all they sell is rice, beans and cookies.  Nothing like fruits or veggies.

This my friends, is the heart of Guatemala.  Semuc Champey.  A place.  A park.  A series of waterfalls/natural swimming pools.  A pumping river that goes underground for 300 meters.  Leaving above, beauty that you've never imagined.  

Seriously.  How to imagine seeing monkeys.  Waterfalls.  Pools.  Jungle   And fresh chocolate.

I'll continue on the chocolate later.  As I have an addiction.  It's a problem, we bought 4 bars in one day.  They knew us by name.  As we'd sneak off into the jungle, they'd see us, yelling 'Anna y Heily, hay choco latte!'  Sad but very true.

 
Another success!

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Guatemala's Best

1 day.  300km (aka 180 miles) 13 hours of bus time, a 14 hour trip.  You do the calculations.
 
What our buses looked like on the outside!
An idea of what the buses were like from the inside!  As soon as we thought "ok, it's not possible to put anyone else in here," they'd pick up 2 more people.

So might call us crazy.  But that’s how we did it.  13 hrs on some of the funniest bus rides yet.  Anna got to appreciate a man sitting on her lap.  And, an armpit in her face.  I sat on a piece of wood wedged between two seats.  We dodged and weaved around some of the smallest, gravel roads I’ve been on yet.  Not to mention we were running along the ridges of the mountains. 

I had a conversation with a deaf man, we signed together.  I have absolutely NO idea what we talked about for 20 minutes, but do know that by the time I was done, I was a little scared someone was going to stop the bus, rob us, then take our packs from above.


Don’t worry that didn’t happen.  We made it to Lanquin from Quetzaltenango, only fighting one flat tire.  

 
Leaving San Pedro, this was out our window.

While in ‘Xela’ we shared our first bed, staying cheap as it was only a layover stop for us.  Let’s just say, we were probably more comfortable sleeping that close, due to the conditions of our room.  At one point Anna asked if I stay in places like this often, if so she was to be worried!



To Semuc Champey today!